Most people imagine spending a romantic week in Paris, strolling through museums, sipping wine in a sidewalk cafe, but the City of Lights can also be enjoyed with your baby. We visited Paris in October with our one year old, and had a fabulous time exploring this beautiful city. Read on for the full guide to getting the most out of your trip to Paris with a baby.
Playgrounds and Passports is supported by readers. When you click through links on this site, we may earn a small affiliate commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your continued support!
Arriving in Paris
If you are flying into Paris Charles de Gaulle airport (CDG) from the US, you are likely exhausted from a long flight with a baby (read our tips for flying with baby here). While it is possible to take the RER into Paris, we found the idea of taking public transit with a tired baby after an overnight flight daunting, to say the least. We were also concerned about potential pickpockets, and aware that we would certainly be an easy target.
For all of these reasons, we recommend taking a taxi or car service into Paris. Babies are technically allowed to travel in a taxi without a car seat, but we opted to hire a car service that would meet us at the airport with a car seat. We highly recommend Welcome Pickups for safe, professional drivers with carseats. The driver met us in the Arrivals Hall, despite being an hour earlier than we had planned! We were transferred directly to our apartment in a clean car with a car seat for our little one.
Getting Around
Paris is a dream for people that love to walk. Eloise was content in her stroller for most of our trip, so we opted to explore Paris by foot, spending full days walking the length of the Seine. Paris streets are crowded, but our Zoe stroller held up well to the curbs and limited cobbles.
We took the metro several times to reach further destinations, including the Catacombs and Montmartre. Paris metro stations are not stroller friendly, so be sure to bring a comfortable and supportive baby carrier, such as Lillebaby Serenity. If you choose to use the metro more, just bring a small stroller, such as the Zoe or BabyZen YOYO, so you can easily carry it up and down the many flights of stairs. (Read our full stroller guide here).
The Paris bus system is more suitable for strollers. We had planned to take the bus to the Eiffel Tower, but it was such a beautiful day that we decided to walk instead.
If you are looking for a quick ride in Paris, G7 taxis offer a family option that includes a car seat. Download and set up the app beforehand for the best experience. Welcome Pickups can also arrange transport within Paris.
Where to Stay
When traveling with a baby, it is important to be centrally located to make it easy to return for naps. We prefer to stay in apartments while traveling to have a bit of extra space for the whole family. For this trip, we chose to stay in Le Marais. We found the area lively and with easy access to public transportation, great restaurants, and beautiful parks.
On previous Paris trips, I have stayed in the St. Germain area. This area is beautiful and also has great restaurants and shopping. It is probably a bit more centrally located than Le Marais, but most apartments will come with a higher price tag.
Baby Essentials
In order to pack light, we brought enough diapers to last the first day or two of our trip. Diapers can be easily purchased at any of the larger grocery stores, such as Carrefour and Monoprix. We found the selection plentiful, including American brands like Pampers. The diapers feel a bit less plush than what we use at home (Kirkland brand), but worked just as well. We didn’t have any issues with leaks or blowouts. We were also able to find wipes without added fragrance for our sensitive-skinned baby.
Be aware that most grocery stores are closed on Sundays.
Where to Eat
Parisians eat dinner late. WIth an 8pm bedtime and a squirmy toddler, there was no way we would be experiencing Paris’s finest restaurants. Before our trip, we were concerned that we wouldn’t be able to find places to eat an early dinner. In reality, most cafes and brasseries were open for dinner service and happy to serve us at 6pm. Of course, we were the only people eating dinner, but Parisians love babies, and we had excellent experiences with all of the waiters.
While choosing cafes, look for places with large patios to pull the stroller up to the table without disturbing other guests. Parisian restaurants do not have high chairs, but Eloise was happy to eat in her stroller, especially with all that delicious bread!
In addition to restaurants, we also had a few great picnics. Pick up a baguette, some cheese, fruit, and whatever else you would like to eat. We kept a travel blanket in our backpack so we could enjoy our meal while Eloise got her wiggles out.
What to Do
Explore St. Germain
This was our favorite neighborhood. There are so many great cafes and (higher end) shops. Stroll along the Boulevard St. Germain, one of the prettiest streets in Paris. We explored the neighborhood, visited the St. Sulpice church, and walked to the Luxembourg Gardens. The Luxembourg Gardens are a great place to people watch, and there are several crepe vendors within the park. There is also a playground available for a small fee.
A day trip to Versailles
We chose to visit Versailles as a daytrip from Paris. It is an easy 20 minute train ride, making it an ideal daytrip with a baby. Normally, strollers are not allowed within the building and must be stored at coat check. However, due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the coat check room is currently closed and strollers are allowed inside the building.
The grounds of Versailles are not stroller friendly- there are a lot of rocks and cobbles and we were exhausted after pushing the stroller all day. However, it’s so much walking that we also wouldn’t want to have the baby in the carrier for the full day. In hindsight, it would have been nice to rent a golf cart to get around more easily. We are still glad we visited, just be prepared for it to be a big, exhausting day!
A note about bicycles- We were so excited when we found out they had child seats and helmets for the bikes, and were able to store our stroller. However, when we got the bikes, we found that the seat was far, far too big for our smaller 1 year old. I think a child would need to be at least 2 in order to fit safely.
Stroll through the Tuileries to the Louvre
Walking through the Tuileries is one of Paris’s greatest walks. The Tuileries stretches from Place de la Concorde to the Louvre, and is filled with fountains, ice cream vendors, and pony rides. If you are looking to visit a smaller museum, stop by the Orangerie Museum to see Monet’s water lilies.
At the end of the Tuileries is the Louvre. Even if you won’t be visiting the inside to see the art, be sure to visit the front to see the beautiful glass pyramid and the impressive architecture. Tucked behind the Louvre is the Palais Royal, with its interesting black and white column art installation. We loved the quiet courtyard here with its cafes, park, and sandpit for kids.
Visit Notre Dame and Ile Cite
On your way to Notre Dame, cross Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in Paris. At the very tip of the Ile Cite is a great little park to stretch little legs or enjoy a snack.
Don’t miss Sainte Chapelle, with its magnificent stained glass windows.
While Notre Dame is still closed from the devastating fire, a visit to the area allows you to get a look at the beautiful church. The construction walls also have a great exhibit detailing the history of the cathedral, and the plans for reconstruction.
Picnic at the Eiffel Tower
Stop at Rue Cler, a fabulous market street, to pick up some treats for a picnic. The fromagerie there gave great recommendations for delicious cheeses. There are also several bakeries and a market with fruit and vegetables.
After picking up your treats, walk through this beautiful neighborhood to the Champs de Mars for the best view of the Eiffel Tower from the grassy park. We enjoyed our picnic here before walking towards the Eiffel Tower and crossing to the Trocadero for another great view of the tower. We love this blanket for picnics- it folds up small and provides a clean, dry place to sit while we enjoy our meal.
Wander through Montmartre
Montmartre is on a hill with lots of cobbles and stairs. It is NOT stroller friendly. We used a carrier for our morning visit to this area. From the bottom of the hill, you get a fabulous view of the Sacre Couer church. You can reach the top of the hill by climbing the stairs or riding the funicular for the cost of one metro ticket. With a 20 pound toddler strapped to my chest, we opted for the funicular.
Upon reaching the top of the hill, you are greeted by the most beautiful view overlooking Paris. We were also treated to a festival! Once a year, vendors from all over France come to Montmartre to sell their products at the Montmartre Vineyard Festival (Vendanges de Montmartre).
Tucked behind the church is Place du Tertre- a square with street artists and cafes. Have your portrait drawn, pick up some art directly from the artist, or enjoy a Cafe Noisette.
Get a view of Paris
Head to the top floor of the Galleries Lafayette for an excellent view of Paris, the Eiffel Tower, and Palais Garnier. When you enter the Galleries Lafayette, look for the elevator- it will take you almost all the way to the rooftop- you will need to take the escalator up the last flight. The rooftop offers a free view of Paris’s stunning skyline.
On your way out, be sure to check out the beautiful domed ceiling. The 5th floor also offers a terrific selection of baby clothes and toys, and a large nursery room with changing tables.
Take a river cruise
Most Seine river cruises depart from the Eiffel Tower area. Because we were staying in Le Marais, we wanted a cruise that would leave from that area. Vedettes du Pont Neuf departs from Ile Cite. The cruise gives an excellent view of Paris’s skyline along the Seine- Musee d’Orsay, the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, and many more. Bring a jacket- it gets cold.
Explore Le Marais
Le Marais is a charming part of Paris with its winding streets. Even after spending 5 days based in this area, we still felt like we were discovering new streets.
This neighborhood is also home to the Jewish quarter, and there is an entire street (Rue de Rosiers) filled with the most delicious food! We opted to eat at L’As du Fallafel, which has been rated the best falafel in the world. After waiting in the line, we received two enormous pitas stuffed with hummus, falafel, veggies, and a delicious sauce.
Don’t miss Place des Vosges, a beautiful square park with cafes surrounding the outside.
Head underground at the Catacombs
Be sure to buy your ticket early, as these are known to sell out and the line can be long. Because we visited in 2021 during the COVID-19 pandemic, crowds were minimal and we were able to buy our ticket the day before.
This is another destination that is definitely NOT stroller friendly. The exit is in a different location than the entrance, and there is no storage offered. Bring the carrier for the baby and leave the stroller at your hotel.
Protect Your Trip
If the COVID-19 pandemic has taught us anything, it is that insurance is necessary to protect our travel investments and keep our family safe on the road. Depending on the policy that you choose, travel insurance can protect your family in the event of medical emergencies and canceled trips. It also takes the sting out of minor trip mishaps, such as lost baggage and delayed flights. Check out Squaremouth to compare plans and choose one that fits your family.
Planning a trip to France? Check out these France travel posts:
- Everything You Need to Know to Visit Disneyland Paris with a Baby
- 7 Beautiful Sites when Visiting Strasbourg with Kids
- Your Personal Item with a Baby- Full Packing List
